![]() ![]() TWO adjustable 90 watt floodlights, 115 volts with on/off switch.TWO pair 28" long double-strength cabinet gloves.Expanded metal screen holds objects up to 200 lbs.Strong 11-18 gauge USA steel construction.TWO full-size 11 gauge steel side-loading doors with welded angle-iron framework.45 lbs fast-cutting Skat Magic Abrasive.Molded glove and lens trim - prevents leaks.TWO tempered glass lenses, 12" x 33" with peel-off inner lens protectors.Powerful Vac-55 HEPA Vacuum to remove dust as you blast.Spoilers, rockers, air cleaners, headlights, taillights, fuel pumps, carburetors, manifolds, oil pans, interior and under-the-hood parts, wheels, springs, hinges, motors, pistons, valves, cylinder heads, and more. C-35 Foot-Pedal-Operated Power Gun removes rust, paint, and scale to bare metal FAST! Cleans fenders, bumpers, drive shafts, Dual glove stations and one center-mountedĬ-35-M Power Gun keeps those long parts always within reach.Įasy to use: just insert part through either side-loading door and press foot pedal. Full 72" wide inside work area to handle drive shafts, bumpers, spoilers, rockers, ground effects, or any wide item that needs blasted. I run the output of the draft blower through a shop vac hose under the shop door.The Skat Blast® 985 Cabinet is manufactured to blast long items. The ones from high efficiency furnaces have plastic impellers so they can suck the dust directly from the cabinet without having to go through any filter that can plug. He saves the draft inducer fans for me, and I have one mounted on the side of the blast cabinet directly over the dust vent hole in the side of the cabinet. I have a friend in the HVAC business, and he does a lot of furnace replacements. When you can limit the light source to just the one in the cabinet it makes a huge difference. If I did a lot of sandblasting I'd be tempted to build a small closet to have the cabinet in so that I could easily block any external light. An alternative is to just throw a large towel or small tarp over yourself and the blast cabinet to block any light from getting to the window. In order to keep any shop lighting from reflecting off the blast cabinet window I turn off the lights in the shop when I'm blasting. Position them so the light does not illuminate the view window, but rather illuminates more downward. One in the upper back side and one upper front, The tubes are 'Directional" meaning the light output is only from about 180 degrees of the circumference. Inside the cabinet I put a pair of 24 inch long 5000K LED tubes with plastic protectors over them to really light up the inside. I've done a couple things to make the visibility better. Overall, I'd say the screen stops close to 90% of the flying abrasive from hitting the window. That allows you to staple the screen to the frame as opposed to coming up with some way to attach the screen to a metal frame. For the frame I just used a piece of 3/8 plywood and cut a hole a couple inches bigger than the window in each direction and then cut the outside so there was a frame of about 1" all the way around. I used nylon screen at first but that didn't work well so I switched to galvanized screen and it holds up well. Anything coming from an angle bounces off the screen and doesn't make it thru to the window. It doesn't stop everything but basically anything that hits the window has to come thru perpendicular to the screen. To protect the window I made a frame to mount a piece of window screen which sits on some standoffs that put it about 3/4" away from the inside of the window. I use Dupont Starblast and it isn't nearly as bad for dusting as some of the other media. The media you use can make a big difference in the amount of dust produced. I’ve got a bunch of small stuff piled up that needs blasted, small parts that can’t get lost or mixed up. ( One batch of parts takes 2 rounds trips and 4 hrs total) I’d be happy. If I could figure out a way to correct those things in less time then it takes me to drive over and back to my blaster. Vac blows out enough exhaust dust to be an issue. Keep stopping removing the part to inspect and back in, I’ve had this thing for a few years now and don’t use it much because it’s a pain in the ass. Not crazy about poking a hole in the building. I’m also thinking about routing the vac exhaust outside. Maybe it needs an upgrade vacuum? I’ve got a filter liner on it but it doesn’t seem to do much good.Ĭleaning the filter out is just a pain, messy process especially difficult when it’s cold and raining outside. I think an intermediate debris catch would help the filter maintain its effectiveness. My second issue is the barrel vacuum that came with it. I’m using the nice ones from TP tools too. The issue Im having is the plastic protector shield lasts about 2 minutes and then you can’t see thru it any longer, it’s destroyed.
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